Sticky rice recipe riffs on a dim sum classic

Sticky rice, aka sweet glutinous rice, is best steamed so its plump, chewy grains are ready to sponge up all the flavor. This dish from my cookbook "The Chinese Way" is a riff on lo mai gai, a dim sum classic. I created it almost by accident when I was obsessed with tomato paste and the umami it can contribute. The result is reminiscent of paella, but with the classic sticky-chewy texture of sweet glutinous rice. You'll end up with a bit of crispy browned rice at the bottom of the pan — scrape it up, fold it into the final mix and savor those crispy bits. Please note, if using salted stock, omit the teaspoon of kosher salt. TOMATO-BACON STICKY RICE Servings: 4 Ingredients 2 cups glutinous rice, such as sweet rice or sticky rice, soaked in water overnight 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons tomato paste, divided 8 ounces thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of red pepper flakes 5 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (2 loosely packed cups), or 8 to 10 dried shiitakes rehydrated in hot water for 1 hour, then sliced 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, white and green parts separated 2 garlic cloves, minced 1½ cups unsalted chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water, divided 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt Zest and juice of 1 lemon Directions 1. Rinse and drain the sticky rice. Place rice in a shallow heat-proof bowl that will fit into your steamer. Steam in two batches if needed. 2. Mix the soy sauce with 1 tablespoon of the tomato paste in a small bowl. Toss with the sticky rice until evenly mixed. 3. Set a bamboo steamer over 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a brisk simmer. 4. Place the bowl in the steamer, cover and steam over medium-high heat for 15 minutes or until the rice is translucent and sticky. (It won't be cooked all the way through.) 5. Meanwhile, place the bacon in a single layer in a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet. Set the skillet over medium heat and cook, turning occasionally, until the bacon is crispy and the fat has rendered, 7 to 9 minutes. Remove the bacon and drain on a paper-towel–lined plate. When it is cool enough to handle, chop it into 1/2-inch pieces and set aside. 6. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat, keeping 1 tablespoon in reserve. Heat over medium-low heat. Add the fennel seeds, smoked paprika, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook undisturbed for 5 to 7 minutes, until browned. 7. If the pan is dry, add the reserved tablespoon bacon fat. Add the white parts of the scallion and the garlic and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons tomato paste and let caramelize, about 5 minutes. 8. Reduce the heat to low, then add 1 cup of the stock, the sugar, and the salt and stir to combine, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the steamed sticky rice and toss to combine, stirring gently and continuously until all the stock is absorbed, 4 to 5 minutes. 9. Add the remaining 1/2 cup stock and the reserved bacon and mix to combine. Cover and steam for another 5 to 8 minutes, until the rice is fully cooked, sticky and plump. 10. Fold in the green parts of the scallions, top with lemon zest, and add a squeeze of lemon and serve immediately. Betty Liu is a cookbook author, photographer and doctor completing her surgical residency. Her debut book was "My Shanghai." Her work has been featured in Bon Appétit, Epicurious and The New York Times. She lives in Boston with her husband, son and dog. Excerpted from "The Chinese Way" by Betty Liu. Copyright (copyright) 2024 by Betty Liu. Used with permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Company. New York, NY. All rights reserved.